• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Home
  • Home Tour
    • Master Bathroom
    • Kitchen
    • Kitchen Eat-In Area
    • Family Room
    • Living Room
    • Home Office
    • Laundry Room
    • Master Bedroom
    • Craft Room
    • Dining Room
    • Garage
    • Guest Room
    • Guest Bathroom
    • Patio
    • Powder Room
    • Teen Blue & White Bedroom
    • Teen Boho Chic Bedroom
  • Projects
    • Room Remodels
    • DIY Projects
    • Decorating Tips
    • Cleaning
    • Organizing
  • Subscribe
  • Shop My Faves
  • Instagram
  • About
    • Contact
    • Meet Kris
    • FAQs
    • Media
    • Disclosure
    • Privacy Policy

Driven by Decor logo

menu icon
go to homepage
subscribe
search icon
Homepage link
  • Home
  • Home Tour
    • Master Bathroom
    • Kitchen
    • Kitchen Eat-In Area
    • Family Room
    • Living Room
    • Home Office
    • Laundry Room
    • Master Bedroom
    • Craft Room
    • Dining Room
    • Garage
    • Guest Room
    • Guest Bathroom
    • Patio
    • Powder Room
    • Teen Blue & White Bedroom
    • Teen Boho Chic Bedroom
  • Projects
    • Room Remodels
    • DIY Projects
    • Decorating Tips
    • Cleaning
    • Organizing
  • Subscribe
  • Shop My Faves
  • Instagram
  • About
    • Contact
    • Meet Kris
    • FAQs
    • Media
    • Disclosure
    • Privacy Policy
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
  • ×

    Updated: Feb 2, 2023 by Kris Jarrett

    How to DIY Shiplap Walls on the Cheap!

    I’m sharing how I got the look of true shiplap walls on the cheap with DIY tips for getting the job done right from prep to install to the finishing touches!
    (affiliate links included in post – full disclosure statement available {here})

    It’s been a few years now since we gave our master bedroom a major facelift and we’ve enjoyed our refreshed space so much. Now that we have our pretty shiplap walls, it’s hard to believe that I lived with the ever-so-lovely light blue faux finished textured walls for as long as I did!

    Love the shiplap walls in this bedroom - this post tells you how to do it!

    Sources: Upholstered Bed (similar) |  Gray nightstands  |  Camp stools |  White USB table lamps  |  Semi flushmount light (available {here} and {here})  |  Gray & white patterned linen duvet – no longer available  |  Gray & white dragon/floral pillows  |  Quilt in king (color is Flagstone) |  Drapes (mine are single-width blackout lined)  |  Diamond jute rug

    My shiplap walls were a labor of love but sooo worth it. Since I’ve gotten so many emails with questions about how I knocked this project out, I thought I’d write up a quick post to share some what-to-do and what-not-to-do tips that I learned along the way!

    How to DIY a shiplap wall on the cheap!

    For Cheap Shiplap Faux is the Way to Go!

    There’s definitely a significant cost savings to creating the look of shiplap with plywood strips instead of using true shiplap boards so that’s one reason that faux is the way to go. But also, since true shiplap boards are about ¾″ deep, it means that you have to remove ALL of your molding (baseboards, crown molding, door trim) to install “real” shiplap and then reinstall the molding back on top of it. Umm… no thank you! We went with plywood strips that are only ¼″ deep so we were able to leave all of the molding in the room in place and simply butt the wood strips up against it. So much easier!
    Faux shiplap walls - love! Post includes tips for DIYing it yourself!

    Shiplap Prep: Paint Your Walls & Do Your Math!

    Prep work for a shiplap wall project is key! First off, you want to paint the walls in the room the same color that you’re going to paint your shiplap. Why? Because there’s a small gap between the boards where you can see the wall and you definitely don’t want a different color showing through. Seeing this lovely light blue wall color (which is what they looked like before doing this project) between the white boards wouldn’t have been such a great look!

    Our master bedroom before remodeling

    I also painted the top and bottom edges of each shiplap board before it went up on the wall because I knew it would be a little nightmarish to try and paint the edges by sticking a paintbrush through the small space between the boards once they were hung. Truth be told it took me a LONG time to pre-paint them so I’m not sure if this part of my prepwork was a time-saver or not in the end. I used Farrow & Ball White for my shiplap paint – you can read more on it and other best white paint colors {here}.

    The other prepwork that’s a definite must is a little bit of math – you want all of your boards to be the same height rather than getting to the end and realizing that you’re going to have an awkward thin strip at the bottom. So measure the space between the crown molding and baseboard and figure out a good height to cut the boards so that they fill the space exactly. Just don’t forget to take the spacing in between the boards into account when making your calculations! I ended up going with a height of 6 ¼″ for mine.

    Beware of Home Improvement Centers Saws!

    The cheapest way to get thin wood shiplap strips at an exact height is to cut them out of ¼″ plywood or MDF sheets (I went with maple plywood sheets because they seemed to be the smoothest of the ¼″ plywood options at Lowes).  Lowes and Home Depot will cut your plywood sheets into strips for you for a small fee and while I know some people have had this done successfully, I would definitely proceed with caution – their saws are made for doing rough cuts and often leave jagged and/or uneven edges. If you’re going to try having them do it for you, I would try just one sheet first to check that you’re getting a nice clean and even cut. If not, hire this job out to a contractor if you don’t have your own table saw.

    Another option that’s become available since doing my shiplap walls is buying pre-cut & boards like {these} – they get great reviews!

    There Is Such a Thing as Too Many Nail Holes (when you’re the one filling them…)

    I had my contractor working with me on the install and we worked out a system where I sanded each board and painted the top and bottom edges and then he put it up on the wall. He installed each board using a nail gun (being sure to get some nails into studs) in addition to applying Liquid Nails on the back of each board. Here’s what it was looking like at this point:

    How to DIY shiplap on the cheap - tips and full tutorial!

    Those suckers are definitely going nowhere which is great but here’s the thing… I was the lucky one that got to fill and sand each and every one of those nail holes before I painted and oh my gosh there were soooo many nail holes and it was sooo time consuming. I’m pretty sure we could have cut the number of nails used in half and those boards still would have been super secure. Thank goodness I had team of helpers to help me knock out the nail filling (ok the furry one wasn’t much help but my daughter sure was!):

    DIY tutorial on installing shiplap walls!

    Nickels Make Great Spacers

    It’s important to keep the spacing between your wood strips consistent and an easy way to do that is with nickels! The amount of space you leave between boards is totally personal preference – if you want less spacing you can use pennies and if you want more spacing, use tile spacers.

    Use nickels as a spacer for DIY shiplap!

    The Key to Seamless Seams is Auto Body Filler

    Unless you’re doing faux shiplap in a small room like a bathroom, you’re going to have vertical seams where one board ends and another begins. Some people don’t mind the look of the seams and leave them as-is but I wanted a look of seamless planks along the wall. Normally I would use wood filler for a project like this but my contractor gave me the great tip of using {this Bondo putty} – it sands just like wood filler but leaves a smoother finish and is less likely to crack over time. The auto body fillers come in two parts – you simply mix the putty with a little bit of the activation cream (I did this on a plastic plate),

    A tip for using auto body filler to create seamless joints!

    smooth it over the seam with a putty knife, and then sand smooth once it’s dry:

    Tip for eliminate joints on shiplap walls - use auto body filler!

    The only negative is that you have to work fast and only mix it in small batches because it hardens quickly.

    That about covers it! I wrapped up the project by vacuuming the dust off the planks and out of the spaces between them and then I calked the corners and primed and painted the shiplap. It definitely wasn’t a quick project but I feel like I got the true shiplap look for a fraction of the cost and love my room as much today as the day that I finished it:

    Simple styling over a bedroom dresser - large round mirror, lamp, and planter with two pieces of layered art

    Sources: Dresser (no longer available) with these knobs |  Large round mirror | Colorful abstract print | Small lily print

    Want to see another option for how to shiplap a room? Check out our bathroom shiplap project using pre-made MDF shiplap. It was slightly more expensive but was quicker to install and easier to paint. Also take a peak at our shiplap ceiling in the room off your kitchen – we’re so excited about how it turned out!

    Hope that’s helpful! Let me know if you have any questions!

    XO,

    KJ Signature

    • Pin
    • Share
    • Email

    Categories: Bedrooms Tags: wall treatments

    ✉️FREE EMAIL SERIES ✉️

    5 Secrets to Reinventing Your Home on a Budget

    Simple tips to instantly transform five rooms in your home!

    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Lisa | Shine Your Light says

      September 02, 2016 at 8:30 am

      Oh my gosh woman, you are a DIY hero!!!! That is a crazy amount of work but it sure is gorgeous! That detail adds so much to the design of the room! All those nail holes…..and painting the edges….good thing you had such cute helpers!!!! Can you all come on over here and shiplap my bathroom? I’ll get donuts??? 🙂 🙂 🙂

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 9:55 pm

        I’m insane is what I am!! And yes, we gladly work for donuts 🙂

        Reply
    2. Rene says

      September 02, 2016 at 9:44 am

      We did the exact same thing a couple of years ago. Your looks great Kris!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 9:56 pm

        I lot of work but worth it, right?!

        Reply
    3. Jessie says

      September 02, 2016 at 10:46 am

      Those gorgeous walls is definitely a labor of love! You did a great job! Love everything about your master bedroom.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 9:56 pm

        Thank you Jessie!

        Reply
    4. Garden, Home and Party says

      September 02, 2016 at 12:55 pm

      Kris,
      This room is wonderful. I remember following along when you were in the midst of working on it. It was worth the extra time and labor, it’s great.
      Thanks for the tutorial.
      Enjoy the long weekend.
      xo,
      Karen

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 9:57 pm

        Thank you so much Karen – I appreciate that!!

        Reply
    5. Mary says

      September 02, 2016 at 10:41 pm

      Wow! That’s a lot of work. Do you think the planks will shrink (in dryer weather) creating bigger gaps between the planks? This happens to my wood floors during the winter.
      I’m trying to get my husband on board to do this in our laundry room. But now I’m concerned with how long it will take get it completed. We can’t go too long without our washer/dryer hooked up.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 9:59 pm

        I sure hope that won’t happen with the wood planks – hopefully since they’re glued down too they won’t really be able to shrink up! It was definitely a pretty time intensive project but I think you could knock out a laundry room in less than a week!

        Reply
    6. Eve says

      September 04, 2016 at 8:40 pm

      Your bedroom is so beautiful! I love your blog!! Thanks for all of the tips & tricks to this amazing project. When we did our bathroom in ship lap, we used a pin nailer, so we didn’t have any of the nail holes to fill! The paint covered it! It is a major time saver, and if you use liquid nails on the boards, they are completely secure.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 10:01 pm

        You are so sweet – thank you! And smart too – gosh how I wish we had used a pin nailer!!!

        Reply
    7. Marty says

      September 06, 2016 at 9:11 am

      The bondo is a great fix, but if you do use it, leave a little space – about the same as your horizontal ones – to let the filler grab a little traction, rather than just a thin surface layer. If you are really into it, cut those ends back in at an angle, open wider to the inside. This will really lock in your bondo, and keep those seams from ever coming back!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 07, 2016 at 10:02 pm

        That is super smart! Thanks so much for the tip!

        Reply
    8. Kris Jarrett says

      September 07, 2016 at 9:55 pm

      Patti, thank you so much!

      Reply
    9. JeanaB says

      September 08, 2016 at 10:46 am

      Do you think your entire process would work well on ceilings? I have a textured ceiling that I’ve been wanting to cover. The room is not very big, but does have a tray ceiling. Thanks!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 22, 2016 at 10:45 pm

        Jenna I would think that it would work on a ceiling too as long as you were using both the glue and nails but I haven’t personally tried it so can’t say for sure. If you try it, let me know how it goes!

        Reply
    10. Brittany says

      January 29, 2017 at 7:40 pm

      Roughly what was the ending hight of each board after you cut the plywood? It’s about perfect size!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        January 29, 2017 at 11:35 pm

        Hi Brittany! Each board was a little over 6″ high!

        Reply
    11. Beth C. says

      February 05, 2017 at 9:27 am

      Getting ready to do this in the home we are moving to. What finish was your paint? Satin? Flat? Semi gloss? Thanks so much for your inspiration. It is fab!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        February 05, 2017 at 8:03 pm

        Hi Beth, I used Eggshell for mine just because I don’t personally love paint with high sheen but Satin or Semigloss would work well too! Good luck with your project!

        Reply
    12. Kris Jarrett says

      February 13, 2017 at 12:51 pm

      Ha! They’re actually real. I bought them at our local grocery store if you can believe that!

      Reply
    13. Paige says

      March 07, 2017 at 9:12 pm

      How do you paint in between your ship lap? Horizontally… did you use an angles brush or a small brush? Looks awesome!!!!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        March 15, 2017 at 12:31 am

        Thanks! I painted the edges of the boards before they went up on the wall!

        Reply
        • Sharyn says

          December 15, 2022 at 11:18 am

          Would you recommend using a paint sprayer to paint the raw shiplap after installation? (We are ripping up carpet, and can use plastic to cover doorways and windows)

          Reply
    14. Erica says

      April 21, 2017 at 2:14 pm

      Hey! I was wondering if you would mind sending a close up of your corners? I have a lot of rooms in my house I wanted to do this in and I’m nervous about my outside corners because I’m trying to avoid the corner strips ( I feel like it kinda gives away the whole THESE ARE FAUX SHIPLAP ????) but the inside corners I’ve seen caulked and some with corner trim and I like yours- but just wanted to see up close? Sorry for the essay! I love your room and I love the tutorial! Great tips/details I haven’t seen in all the other ones!!

      Reply
    15. Stacy Yeomans says

      May 28, 2017 at 4:43 pm

      How did you finish the inside and outside corners?

      Reply
    16. Tahnee says

      August 21, 2017 at 3:54 pm

      what color white is this and what brand.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        August 28, 2017 at 10:57 pm

        The paint color is Farrow & Ball’s All White

        Reply
    17. Cbc says

      August 27, 2017 at 7:56 pm

      Thank you for this post! I just finished using your shiplap plan on my bathroom. I am so happy with it. Would be happy to share a pic but I don’t see that option here. It was putsy to do. Sanding was the worst part. But in the end it turned out beautiful! Thanks!!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        August 28, 2017 at 10:56 pm

        I’m so glad to hear that!!! And I agree – the sanding is a total drag. I’d love to see a pic!

        Reply
    18. Jane says

      September 03, 2017 at 4:05 pm

      Looks beautiful. I found your website when looking online for coin widths to use as spacers. After pricing out planking at various home improvement and lumber stores. I went with 6 x 8 cedar fence board at only $2.77 each.. I picked out the best ones and had them sanded on one side and they were perfect.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 08, 2017 at 11:58 pm

        Thanks for leaving a comment and letting everyone know what worked for you – sounds like a great solution!!

        Reply
    19. Deann says

      September 23, 2017 at 12:55 pm

      Hi Kris – I have beautiful crown molding and baseboards that I don’t want to take down when I install the shiplap – do you have any recommendations or tips to make sure it looks good?

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 30, 2017 at 10:15 pm

        I think you should be fine as long as your crown and baseboards are pretty level. I wasn’t planning to replace my crown molding but it was nowhere near to level so the shiplap wasn’t going to hug it along its entire length. BUT I have a pretty old house so there’s pretty much nothing level – if your house is newer you should be ok!

        Reply
    20. Teresa says

      January 25, 2018 at 2:14 pm

      Agree, and it’s not a DIY if your Contractor does the installation.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        January 25, 2018 at 2:23 pm

        The only reason I had my contractor help is that it’s a two person job holding up the boards to nail them if you want to make sure they’re straight and my husband couldn’t take the time off of work to help me. But it is definitely a doable DIY and something we could and would have done the same way on our own if his work schedule had allowed. Everything that could be done as a one person job including all of the prep and finish work I did myself.

        Reply
        • Andrew says

          October 28, 2020 at 8:24 pm

          No offense but most guys would love to help their wife with this! Your husband is very lucky, Kris! I’m so lucky my wife helps me 🙂 Nice job BTW, I am going to attempt the same project. Did you use a roller on the edges? Wouldn’t it be an advantage to prime the entire board before installing?

          Reply
    21. Sumer says

      March 24, 2018 at 8:27 am

      Did you stagger the planks so the “bondo” ends weren’t all in the same spot?

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        March 29, 2018 at 6:15 pm

        Great question – yes I did!

        Reply
    22. Kathleen Beck says

      August 21, 2018 at 9:50 am

      Hi! I love this room! Can you tell me what color your dresser is painted? Thank you!

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        September 10, 2018 at 12:02 am

        Thank you! It’s Farrow & Ball’s Worsted

        Reply
    23. John May says

      October 28, 2018 at 9:43 am

      On your white paint. Is it a semi gloss, egg shell or flat?

      Reply
    24. jen says

      April 29, 2019 at 3:13 pm

      It turned out beautiful. Thank you for the tip in using auto body filler. I am like you, I like the seamless look. I did have one question. You said it sanded smooth, but was the paint able to cover it well…is it noticeable? Thanks so much.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        May 28, 2019 at 7:43 pm

        Hi Jen – the paint was able to cover it really well (I primed those spots first!). A few of the joints had a little bit of cracking over the first winter but most of the joints are still seamless.

        Reply
    25. Debbie C says

      October 06, 2019 at 11:59 am

      I am thinking of doing this in an attic bedroom of a house I’m buying so I loved your post! One idea I had about painting the edges I’m going to try…..lay the boards on a flat surface close side by side, edges up, so paint can’t drip in between. Put bookends or something heavy to hold them steady on each side of the group. Then use a roller with a light amount of paint on it and paint a whole group at once! Dry and flip to other side to paint. White shiplap ceilings and eaves, and a gray painted floor will look amazing I think!

      Reply
      • Jrose says

        November 01, 2019 at 9:56 am

        Painting the sides all together is very strategic just make sure they don’t dry together and get stuck. You will ruin them when pulling apart. So You may want to put larger spacers between each board and hold all the ends together in some fashion to prevent tipping… like book ends, Maybe? It may even help when flipping altogether.

        All great tips. Great article! Definitely taking lots of notes for our new bathroom sink wall 🙂 curious how a black wall with white Shiplap would look? Anyone seen anything like that? We will have black hexagon tile floor and a few other black accents so pondering the continued black accented look between boards. Just having trouble picturing it on a large scale- like the wall. The other walls would be a medium sage green (not black).

        Reply
    26. Omar says

      April 10, 2020 at 9:53 pm

      Great detailed post. I did exactly the same project.
      Now that it has been a while, can you tell us if the Bondo All-Purpose Putty was a good choice for the ‘seamless plank look’? Did it ever crack over time?
      Thanks!

      Reply
    27. Judy says

      April 26, 2020 at 11:00 pm

      I love this idea. But ship lap is so expensive. But I have a question…

      Why do you want to leave a space between the boards? Couldn’t you butt them together tightly? True ship lap doesn’t have space between the boards. They actually overlap. So I’m not getting why you want to space between them.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        May 07, 2020 at 10:20 pm

        With true shiplap the boards interlock and there’s a groove between the boards – the gap mimics that groove. If you butt the boards right up to each other, it wouldn’t look right…

        Reply
    28. Judy says

      May 12, 2020 at 4:18 pm

      Hi Kris, I am new to your blog and love it! What paint finish did you use ( satin, eggshell, etc) on the planked walls? I am attempting to plank my first wall. Thanks!

      Reply
      • Travis says

        June 28, 2020 at 4:24 pm

        This isn’t really shiplap. Real shiplap is expensive because it’s a solid wood covering. You basically just put paneling over drywall. This sadly will not holdup over time as many have seen before, and this overuse of faux shiplap is why real shiplap is going out of style.

        Reply
        • Kris Jarrett says

          July 28, 2020 at 12:54 pm

          I explained in my post that this isn’t true shiplap – it’s a way to get the same look for less and without the hassle of removing all of the molding in the room. It’s now been over three years since we installed it and it still looking amazing!

          Reply
          • Carolina Hill says

            August 25, 2020 at 10:13 pm

            I’m looking at doing shiplap in my new home, I just bought. Thanks for the tips and I’ll definitely take your advice on the fake shiplap, instead of the real wood. Your room looks beautiful!

            Reply
    29. Chris says

      June 06, 2020 at 6:17 pm

      What size plywood sheets did you get at Lowe’s? We’re you able to get the maple plywood in 4×8?

      Reply
    30. Gin says

      July 28, 2020 at 12:29 pm

      I so want to do this… Wondered if the corner boards were cut on an angle or butted up against each other?

      Reply
      • Karen says

        January 20, 2021 at 11:38 am

        Good question

        Reply
    31. Prandy says

      September 04, 2020 at 9:40 am

      I love the way this came out! All the details and tips you added have made it so easy to do this ourselves. I’m going to do this in my dining room along one 12ft long wall. Quick question….. When you had the vertical seam and used the bondo, did you stagger the seam as you went down each row or did they all line up ? The bondo is a great suggestion I would have never thought about that and it really creates a seamless look which is exactly what I’m looking for.

      Reply
    32. Peggy Ramsey says

      October 08, 2020 at 10:23 pm

      I loved what you did with the ship lab. I did the same thing a month ago including the ceiling in the bathroom. Still working on things like the floor the counter top. new sinks etc. What I am trying to find out is how do the get the paint that dripped between the board. I used a penny.

      Reply
      • Karen says

        January 20, 2021 at 11:39 am

        I’d live to see how it looks in the walls and ceiling!

        Reply
    33. Jennifer says

      October 21, 2020 at 3:37 pm

      I want to do this in my living room, which is quite large. How big is the room and how much did it end up costing in total?

      Reply
    34. Suzanne says

      October 25, 2020 at 8:33 am

      Hi! Love your room! Wondering where you bought your dresser even though it’s out of stock. Thanks!

      Reply
    35. Brit says

      January 10, 2021 at 3:06 pm

      This is amazing! I am going to try my accent wall in the spring! Can you share an average cost of doing this yourself?

      Reply
    36. Karen says

      January 20, 2021 at 11:36 am

      How long were your boards? Were you able to get an even cut using a table saw?

      Reply
    37. Carina Vause says

      February 14, 2021 at 12:26 am

      If your using real wood (vs MDF) use a proper wood primer first or all the tannins in the wood will stain your paint over time. It looks terrible to have beige knot circles in white paint!

      The paint plus primer people buy at the hardware store is drywall or paint primer not wood primer.

      Reply
      • Carina Vause says

        February 14, 2021 at 12:28 am

        I apricate all your tips and hints. We’re planning this in our foyer this spring (when we can pre paint outdoors) your walls look great

        Reply
    38. Deanna Harris says

      March 18, 2021 at 11:27 pm

      Love this, I am about to adventure shiplap into my kitchen and your blog was exactly what I needed. How many maple boards did it take?

      Reply
    39. Deanna Harris says

      March 18, 2021 at 11:29 pm

      I mean, how many maple sheets did it take for your room? Not the boards you cut approx 6” high… Sorry should have clarified.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        March 31, 2021 at 1:20 pm

        It’s been several years since doing this project so unfortunately I don’t remember the specific number of sheets anymore!

        Reply
    40. Eileen Patterson says

      June 25, 2021 at 6:21 pm

      Like to put a shipload in my bathroom or master bedroom which is better shiplap wallpaper or contact paper right now had a faux paint and would like to cover with wallpaper perk and stick it shiplap wallpaper which one is cheaper and would look different rather than painting.
      Thank you

      Reply
    41. Terry says

      January 09, 2022 at 9:55 am

      How did you do the outside corners? Did you bevel them or just but them together?

      Reply
    42. Kathy Henson says

      February 16, 2022 at 6:05 am

      I love the way your project turned out. I have been remodeling our 60 year old cinderblock lake home. All of the interior walls surrounding the house have exposed cinderblock. I removed all the interior 60 year old paneling. Now I’d like to put up shiplap. I am thinking about glueing and nailing directly to the cinderblock wall. If you have any suggestions for this application over cinderblock your replay would be appreciated. I am concerned that if I use vertical strips to support the shiplap these thinner pieces might look wavy.

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        February 17, 2022 at 11:34 am

        I honestly don’t have any experience working with cinderblock but I would probably consider using PVC shiplap so you don’t have to worry about any warping issues with the wood or mdf shiplap being right up against cinderblock (which can hold moisture).

        Reply
    43. Sharyn says

      December 15, 2022 at 11:30 am

      Would you recommend using a paint sprayer to prime and paint the installed plywood? Would the paint get in the grooves easier than hand painting?
      Using plastic sheeting to protect doorways and windows would be easy for us to do.
      Thank you.

      Reply
    44. Angie says

      February 23, 2023 at 5:39 pm

      Wow! I’d love to use this cheaper ship lapping method to do my ceilings at our lake cottage. Do you think this method would work? Also the ceiling is textured somewhat (not popcorn), do you think it would be noticeable through the tiny nickel-wide space?

      Reply
      • Kris Jarrett says

        March 01, 2023 at 8:10 pm

        Unfortunately, I actually don’t think this would work well for ceilings since it’s a thinner material and could bow if hung from a ceiling. You don’t necessarily have to use true shiplap, but I would use thicker wood boards that don’t have any flex in them. I’ve never seen it installed with the nickel gap on popcorn ceiling so I don’t know for sure but it seems to unlikely that you’d be able to tell in that tiny gap.

        Reply

    Leave a Reply Cancel reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

    This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

    Primary Sidebar

    ✉️FREE EMAIL SERIES ✉️

    5 Secrets to Reinventing Your Home on a Budget

    Simple tips to instantly transform five rooms in your home!

    Meet Kris

    Kris of Driven by Decor

    Follow Me

    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    All images on DBD are copyrighted and taken by me unless otherwise noted. If you'd like to use any of my images, please request their use via my Contact page.

    I am a participant in several affiliate advertising programs (including the Amazon Associates program) and earn fees from qualifying purchases. For more information, see my full disclosure statement {here}.

    To view my privacy policy, go {here}.

    Copyright © 2023 · Driven by Decor